As a child I took trips with my aunts out of New Bedford on the steamships that ran from the State Pier to Woods Hole, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. Once the loud departure whistle sounded (I was always afraid of the loud noise) and we were on our way down New Bedford Harbor (no Hurricane Barrier then) and out into the waters of Buzzards Bay, it was an adventure and my introduction to the world of boating. It was a slow trip, stopping at Wood’s Hole to take on passengers, bikes, and automobiles, then out through the channel to Martha’s Vineyard. You could then continue on to Nantucket and the complete trip took about three hours. That time has been cut down considerably by the arrival a few years ago of the fast ferry, but also takes away the unhurried trip where there are so many things to see on the way. We always stayed out on deck to check out the passing ships, birds and islands on the way. I can remember passing Nomansland, an island that is part of the Elizabeth Island chain, and being told that it was used as a practice bombing site during World War II. At times the wind might cover us with the thick black exhaust coming from the huge stacks. Watching children diving for coins that people tossed into the water as the ship docked was one of the first things I can remember about arriving. Riding the carousel in Oak Bluffs and a tour of the island with a stop at Gay Head light where you could look out over the cliffs was a treat. It was fun for a child who had only been in a rowboat.
The Nobska was the last coastal steamer in America. Her maiden voyage was in 1925 and she served New England ports until 1973. There was a failed effort made to restore her in 1988 and she was scrapped in 2006.
Visiting Martha’s Vineyard again in my teen years on my best friend’s father’s fishing boat was a very different kind of trip. We could feel the ship rocking in the waves and there was a real sense of excitement. We rented bikes and rode around the island on our own, a very independent feeling. I think we still rode the carousel.
The next boating experience was quite a step up from steamships and fishing boats. It was a cruise to the islands on a yacht owned by a customer of the business I worked for at my first job. The entire staff was invited on a day trip to the islands, stopping for lunch at a Hyannis restaurant. It was very smooth sailing that bright warm September day with a luxurious ship under our feet and even a chance to take the ship’s wheel. I often think of that trip on a September day. A friend once told me the best way to enjoy boating is to have a friend who owns a boat. It was certainly true in this case.
Another fun day trip is a ride on the Alert to Cuttyhunk, one of the Elizabeth Islands that in summer is overrun with pleasure craft, but still retains the charm of island living. With a school that some years has a few students, a library that is only open a few hours a week and a church that serves several denominations on different schedules, it reminds you of the "way it was" and still can be. A hike to the highest point on the island offers a 360-degree view of the ocean. Penikese Island, which housed a former leper colony and now a school for wayward boys, is adjacent.
Block Island, 12 miles off the coast of Rhode Island, is named after the Dutch settler Adrian Block who charted it in 1614. A short ferry trip from Point Judith, a busy working waterfront, brings you to a summer retreat with shops and restaurants, most of which are within walking distance of the landing. Southeast Lighthouse, a national landmark, was built in 1873 and moved 200 feet back from the edge of the cliffs it sits on in 1993. At that time it was the largest building moved in one piece. It is open to the public for tours, affording lovely water views. It is also walking or biking distance from the ferry.
Keeping local, another interesting trip is the Onset Canal cruise. From the dock in Onset it takes you through the Cape Cod Canal with running commentary on the history of the canal and adjacent land areas. Massachusetts Maritime Academy, with its new wind turbine and oftentimes its training ship, are in view and the ship then passes under the Bourne and Sagamore Bridges. People can be seen walking, biking or fishing along either side of the seven mile path. Many large vessels as well as pleasure craft use this waterway to save time in travel around the tip of the cape and can be seen passing by.
An often overlooked trip is found right at Fisherman’s Wharf next to the State Pier where the small harbor ferry Acushnet offers 70-minute trips through New Bedford/Fairhaven inner harbor. It’s a sight that few people other than fishermen or pleasure boaters see and even they don’t travel the whole route. The working waterfront is explained as you pass by the various fish houses unloading catches, and the different types of fish and shellfish that are brought in to be sold. A trip through the hurricane barrier offers a brief history, as well as information on historical homes along the waterfront. Traveling under the New Bedford/Fairhaven Bridge into the upper harbor to what was once a ‘boat graveyard’ adds a different touch to the tour. If there are children aboard, one might be allowed to steer the small canvas covered craft. It really is an enjoyable tour and you’ll wonder why it took you so long to do it.
While walking on the hurricane barrier at Fort Phoenix on a beautiful, clear, sunny day when the smell of salt air and just a little diesel fuel is in the air, I have that urge to be on a ship, away from the mainland and on the way to an island.
